Za’atar
This is also what we called Manakeesh which is a Lebanese Flatbread topped with a variety of possibility most often with Za'atar
Michele Anna Jordan has been exploring and extolling the wonders of Wine Country (and especially Sonoma County) food and wine since long before it was recognized by the rest of the country as one of the great culinary treasure spots. Not only is she a great teacher but also has the ability to communicate recipes in a straightforward “I can do that” manner that has been an inspiration for cooks of all abilities. Her role as culinary historian for our part of the world is much appreciated and she, almost single-handedly, has made stars of our local growers, farmers, and producers. We’re so lucky she is here with us!
— Chef John Ash, author and father of Wine Country Cuisine
A few months ago, za’atar made it onto several lists of food trends predicted for 2019. Such lists are published every year and tend not to hit the target very often, if at all.
I recall a list from a couple of decades ago that had us all “eating” just a few pills a day in the new millennium. One thing that is often left out of these compilations is human hunger, the compelling pleasure of taste and the reality that sharing food around a table is one of the things that make us human.
But I digress. Za’atar caught my eye because I love it and have been using it for years.
Za’atar is a simple blend of herbs and seeds, common in Turkish and other Middle Eastern and North African cuisines. Its most basic version is ground sumac, toasted sesame seeds and salt. Most versions also include dried thyme and, sometimes, dried oregano. The sumac is a different variety, not the poison sumac we have in North America.
Don’t make it with berries you forage domestically.
The sumac used to make za’atar is bright and acidic, suggestive of lemon. Paired with earthy sesame seeds and boosted with salt, it enlivens everything from scrambled eggs and plain yogurt to grilled seafood, poultry and meat. I find it particularly delicious sprinkled on top of traditional hummus — homemade, please! — and on good toast slathered with creme fraiche or labneh, which is cheese made from yogurt.
Za’atar is readily available nowadays, at such local stores as Savory Spice and Penzey’s Spices. You’ll see it in local supermarkets, too.
If you want to make your own, you will need to visit a spice shop for the ground sumac. You’ll find recipes for dishes mentioned in this column (hummus, labneh, yogurt-tahini sauce, gomashio) at “Eat This Now,” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com.
If you’ve ever made gomashio, a Japanese condiment of toasted sesame seeds, toasted seaweed and salt, you’re already familiar with
how to make za’atar.
The first time you toast sesame seeds can be a tad tricky because, as the seeds heat up some begin to jump. It’s not a problem; just be sure to agitate the pan and adjust the heat as necessary so that the seeds do not burn.
Za’atar at Home
Makes about ½ cup
¼ cup white sesame seeds
½ cup dried thyme
1 tablespoon ground sumac
2 teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste
Set a wok or a cast-iron skillet over high heat and add the sesame seeds. When the pan is very hot, agitate it so that the seeds do not burn.
Continue, agitating the pan all the while, until the seeds take some color and release their aromas. Remove from the heat before they turn dark brown and tip them, carefully, into a bowl. Let cool for a few minutes.
Stir in the thyme, sumac and salt. Tip into a glass jar and, when fully cool, close with its lid. Store in your spice cupboard and use within about 2 months.
Michele Anna Jordan is the author of 24 books to date,. Email her at michele@micheleannajordan.com.